"It's about time." I'm whispering to myself. No. I'm exclaiming out loud in my head! What took me so long? The last time I was here was on December 23, 2005. Three days before the Indian Ocean tsunami levelled the northern tip of Sumatra.

We're at the foot of the Gangapurna Mountain. I take a last look at Gangapurna glacier in the daylight. Tomorrow I will leave before sunrise.

It's been a day of nerves, physique and emotions. Beginning at 0730, Mukhiya and I ascended Gangapurna in search of blue sheep and the elusive musk deer.

Julu Village. The warmest village in Menang district because it's sheltered from the wind. First snow fell this morning but the sun kept its rays up.

Today I trekked from upper Pisang to Ngarwal via Gyaru. Its old name is Yakru and some of the signs along the trail still bear this name.

"You need to learn some words." Mukhiya encourages. "One word a day. What do you say?"

Mukhiya began guiding treks into the Annapurna Mountains since he was 13 years old. He comes from a family of 13, had an arranged marriage at 22, and has 2 sons.