Kathmandu’s Durbar Square, also known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar, is a fascinating complex of old palaces and temples in the heart of Kathmandu’s old town. Durbar means “palace” and Nepal’s kings used to live and rule from the Hanuman Dhoka Palace until the construction of the Nararayanhiti Palace in the 18^th century.

(Left) Hanuman Dhoka Durbar is a palace complex that was constructed in the 15th century. It comprises structures built by the Malla kings and the Shah dynasty. Spread over five acres, the eastern wing is the oldest part dated to the mid-16th century, and was expanded by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century with many temples. In 1768, Prithvi Narayan Shah added four lookout towers to the southeastern corner. The royal family lived in this palace until 1886, when they shifted to Narayanhiti Palace.

Suman is a student from the workshop conducted by theasiamag.com’s Pictures Editor, Debby Ng. The workshop, held in Kathmandu between February and March 2011, is a year-long project that encourages creative and critical thinking through photography. The workshop is a joint project by themasiamag.com, the Little Sisters Fund, Takshashila Academy and the Patatas.

Many of the palaces and temples in Hanuman Dhoka Durbar were built during the reign of the Malla Kings (1200 to 1768) and are beautiful examples of Newari architecture, Nepal’s most distinctive architectural style. After an earthquake damaged many parts of the square in 1934, several buildings were rebuilt. Hanuman Dhoka Durbar is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

(Left) The first chowk, or junction, after the entrance of Hanuman Dhoka Durbar. To the right side of the photograph stands the Nau tallay Durbar (Nine-storied palace). These were established in the mid-16th century.

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Hanuman Dhoka Durbar is the focal point of religious and social activities in Kathmandu Old City. This place comprises palaces, temples, shrines, statues and courtyards built between the 12th and 18th centuries by the ancient kings of Nepal. The complex is a subtle amalgamation of the old and new. Elaborately adorned architectural features and intricately carved roofs are night stays for beggars and tourists. Priests and monks jostle along the crowd to attract a potential client for a tour of the grounds.

(Left) These temples built in Licchavi period were damaged in an earthquake (1990 BS/AD 1934) but were restored to the exact condition by King Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah.

Text and photos by Suman Shakya

Hanuman Dhoka Durbar used to be the residence of the Nepali royal family and its administrators. The complex lies in the heart of the city, and is named after Hanuman, a Hindu deity. A stone statue of Hanuman is placed right next to the main entrance. Though there are no written archives stating the history of the Kathmandu Durbar Square, the construction of the palace in the square is credited to Sankharadev (1069-1083). The complex became a public attraction when the monarchs shifted to the newly build Narayanhiti Palace.

(Left) The evening view of the inner part of the palace, which shows the art of the old architecture and challenges the present engineering.

Text and photos by Suman Shakya

(Left) The Kumari Chowk house of the Kumari, Nepal’s young living goddess. The Kumari is a girl chosen from four- to seven-year-old girls by a process of rigorous tests and rituals. The Kumari is worshipped as a living goddess and supported financially by the government until she gets her first menstruation, when she is released from her goddess duties.

Text and photos by Suman Shakya

Pratap Malla, son of Laksminar Simha, was an intellectual, a pious devotee, and he was especially interested in arts. It was during his reign that the square was extensively developed. He called himself a Kavindra, king of poets, and boasted that he was learned in 15 different languages. A passionate builder, he immediately initiated projects to enlarge his royal palace, right after his coronation as a king. He also restored old temples and constructed new temples, shrines and stupas around his kingdom. In the process of beautifying his palace, he added fountains, ponds, and baths. In Sundari Chok, he established a low bath with a golden fountain. He also built a small pond, the Naga Pokhari, in the palace adorned with Nagakastha, a wooden serpent, which is said he had ordered stolen from the royal pond in the Bhaktapur Durbar Square. He also restored the Licchavi stone sculptures such as the Jalasayana Narayana, the Kaliyadamana, and the Kala Bhairav. An idol of Jalasayana Narayana was placed in a newly created pond in the Bhandarkhal garden in the Eastern wing of the palace.

(Left) Nau talley durbar was built by King Pratap Malla, and it was from this nine-story palace where he stood to view the valley. It used to be the tallest building in the valley.

Text and photos by Suman Shakya

(Left) Evening view of the Taleju Temple. It is one of the oldest temples in the square, and the steps of the Manju Deval are a popular meeting place and a good spot to sit and watch life on the square. The first king of the independent Kathmandu City, Ratna Malla, is said to have built a Taleju temple at the Northern side of the palace in 1501.

Text and photos by Suman Shakya

(Left) Hanuman Dhoka Durbar seems to be a combination of eastern and western pattern of architecture. In 1908, a palace, Gaddi Durbar, was built using European architectural designs. The Rana Prime Ministers who had taken over the power but not the throne of the country from the Shahs Kings from 1846 to 1951, were greatly influenced by European styles. The Gaddi Durbar is covered in white plaster, has Greek columns and adjoins a large audience hall – all foreign features to Nepali architecture. The balconies of this durbar were reserved for the royal family during festivals to view the square below.

Text and photos by Suman Shakya

Time and again the temples and the palaces in the square have gone through reconstruction after being damaged by natural causes or neglect. Presently there are less than ten quadrangles in the square. The temples are being preserved as national heritage sites and the palace is being used as a museum. Only a few parts of the palace are open for visitors and the Taleju Temple is only open for people of Hindu and Buddhist faiths.

(Left) The night view of the old window, constructed in the mid-17th century.

Text and photos by Suman Shakya

(Left) The evening view of the Kumari Ghar, which was built by the Jayaprakash Malla, the last Malla king to rule Kathmandu. The temple was named Kumari Bahal and was structured like a typical Newari vihara. In his house resides the Kumari, an immature girl who is revered as the living goddess. He also made a chariot for Kumari and in the courtyard had detailed terra cotta tiles of that time laid down.

Text and photos by Suman Shakya

(Left) Maju Deval is one of the tallest buildings in the square, and it is the temple of Lord Shiva which was built by Radhilasmi, the widowed queen of Pratap Malla in 1692.

Text and photos by Suman Shakya

Hanuman Dhoka chowk was intricately designed by the king Pratap Malla. In front of the entrance Pratap Malla placed the statue of Hanuman, with the intention that Hanuman would strengthen his army and protect his home. The entrance leads to Nasal Chok, the courtyard where most royal events such as coronation, performances, and yagyas, holy fire rituals, take place.

Text and photos by Suman Shakya